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Illegal InstructionThe climbing exploits of a technology worker
October 16 Climbing, Switzerland, 12 & 13 October 200712/10/07, Hintisberg, Grindelwald
People: Beat, Nadia and I
Route
Zick-Zack, Overall 6a (French), 5 pitches: 6a, 6a, 5C+, 6b (crossing to Tintangel) and 6a (Tintangel). Altitude 2100m, length 150m ish.
The first 2 pitches went without any issue, however there was a balancy move on the 3rd which caught me out resulting in three falls (Beat had led so Nadia and I were top-roping). This was annoying, but I just couldn't suss the move out. The 4th pitch had several roofs, which also caused me to fall a few times. Final 6a was a breeze in comparison. A nice climb, really worth doing, and great views of the North face of the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau opposite. I had my Finepix 700 with me confident that my "camera in zipped-up pocket, lanyard around wrist before removal" approach to taking photos was fool-proof, however on the start of the 3rd pitch I put the camera into the non-zip pocket without realising, and on the 1st move the camera fell 70m to the path below. Fortunately, Beat found the memory card intact on the path when we rappelled off, the camera obviously wasn't in the same shape.
13/10/07, Eldorado, Grimsel Passhohe, Bern
People: Beat Schwegler, Nadia, Beat, Bear and I.
Route
Motorhead, Overall 6a+ (French), 13 pitches: 4a, 5c, 6a, 4b, 5a, 5c, 6a, 6a+, 4b, 5b, 5c, 6a, 5c (didn't bother with the 14th pitch). Altitude 1960m, length 440m
What a climb! Beat had told me that it was world-famous, but I didn't really know what to expect. It had to be special after a 545am start, 1.5hr drive followed by 1.5hr approach walk. 440 meters of slab with differing degrees of angle, grip and cracks is what we got. Beat lead again with Nadia and I following. A really nice 10' lay-away at the start of the 2nd pitch is the first thing I remember well from the route. The 3rd pitch is where most photos get taken; a really nice crack to climb for what seems like ages. I climbed it well but it damn hurts your feet, I slipped when moving left off the crack to get to the belay: most would climb further up the crack then down a bit to the belay.The 5th pitch was awesome: a tiny crack which you could just get your fingertips into with a steep layaway followed by a roof at the top. I did this without falling and got such a feeling of accomplishment :-) The crux on the 8th @ 6a+ (see photos of Nadia) was straight-forward once you moved well to the right. Of course, it didn't feel that straight-forward in my first two attempts... The 4b 9th pitch was a real challenge as Beat literally ran from bolt to bolt - feeding two 60m ropes through my DMM bug quick enough was hard work. A quick bite to eat at the 9th stand was followed by a pitch which had a difficult move off one slab towards the end; I fell twice but coped with the following overhang easily. Ironically, Beat had only really come close to falling on the whole route at this overhang, but that was largely due to not being able to reach the right sized friend from behind him for quite some time, he spotted the bolt right by his nose and quickly clipped. The final pitch we did was good, even though I moved right off the crack early and went across the slab. It was hard work and I had to rest for a minute before moving on. Nadia came last on this pitch as it was easier from a rope management perspective, plus the other Beat had reached the belay. Most belays Nadia and I had a reasonable shared-belay process where she pulled the rope up from below and untwisted it whilst I belayed Beat. However, we still managed to get the rope twisted and blocked numerous times, much to Beats annoyance. We completed the climb in 5 1/2 hours, not bad for 3 people climbing together. I was completely knackered by the time we got back to the car and felt the waves of energy flow through me after eating some pieces of chocolate and energy bar.
I can honestly say this is by far the best climb I've ever done. Apparently there are plans to raise the lake level by 30m, which means the 1st pitch will go at some stage in the future - a real shame.
September 10 I'm Climbing Again :-)After two shoulder injuries and seven months physio therapy, I'm back on the wall. In fact this blog is a bit late - I've been ramping up for about 6 weeks and the last two visits to Craggy Island I lead a few easy 5+'s I'm really hoping for an Indian summer so I can get to some outdoor crags (like Portland) before its too cold. Either way, I'm over with Beat and Nadia in Switzerland for a weekend of climbing in October. Either way you'll see another blog entry soon. Kevin September 11 Climbing, Portland, 9 September 2006 or, "back down to earth with a bump!"09/09/06, The Cuttings, Portland People: Mark Harrison, Steve Wake and I
Weather: Mild, low-mid-20s, very windy
Massive hangover from the Company Party I'd been to the night before - but thats no excuse! :-) On a high from last weekend in Switzerland, I was looking forward to The Cuttings. I'd been there for a look on August Bank Holiday Monday, and liked what I saw.
Routes
Three Fingers, 5+/6a (4 in the Rockfax 2005 Dorest guide)
At 4 in the guide, Three Fingers looked like a nice warmup. I wasn't that keen to lead it what with the fuzzy head, but once I was past the first few moves I was enjoying myself. I mis-read the guide and actually did the start of Two Fingers, when I got to the first bolt and looked up, I decided the route to the right (Three Fingers) was more reasonble for my ability. Two bolts later, I was stumped. The move wasn't that difficult, ok you have to trust to footwork to gain a steep mantleshelf but the exposure was the issue. Eventually after 4 half-hearted attempts, I bottled it. Mark gave it a good go, but eventually struggled at the same point, Steve managed to kneel on the ledge but didn't have the guts to stand up. Not wanting to be beaten by a 4, I had another go; made the move copying Steve's approach, and cliped the next bolt. The next move was even more exposed, and after about two mintues, I lowered off accepting defeat :-(. When I got home I checked the Rockfax database, and there were about a dozen comments posted that a large hold had fallen, and it was now either a hard 5+ or easy 6a. I felt a bit better, but I want to do this; so a project for the tick list.
The Ramp, 4+
The Cuttings were really busy, so the only easy climb we had the option of was The Ramp. 4+ in the guide didn't raise any warning bells (all the routes in Rockfax Costa Blanca were over graded if anything, so it didn't even cross my mind that the opposite might occur), but at mid-point the next move was above the bolt, under an overhang and I wasn't happy with the holds (i.e. they weren't massive jugs!), so I bottled. Mark and Steve did the same. We were feeling quite dejected by this time. We'd been there 90 minutes and failed twice.
Ok, this was the one. I said I wasn't going to lead it as I was obviously jinxing the routes on the day. Mark went first and made good progress until the mid-point. Again, exposure got the best of him, then Steve, then me. Our tail was so far between our legs now, we could hardly walk. (Comments on the Rockfax d/b are mixed in opinion between 4+ and 5).
There were no 4's free, and I was determined to tick at least one climb even if it was just some steps! Magical Mystery Tour was very polished, but a tick nevertheless. Mark and Steve also lead, using it for practice to thread the rope and lower off. Whilst we were climbing, someone decked out on We're Only Placing Bolts for Nigel to our left. Fortunately it was a short fall (3m or so) and she wasn't hurt.
Lessons for the day;
1. Don't drink heavily before a day climbing (der!)
2. Check the grades online/in mini guide before going to the crag
3. Learn to spot the distances between bolts from the ground, so you're able to see the exposed bit and make an informed decision
4. Get some guts and climb past bolts!
5. See number 4. 6 hours driving, one route ticked and three routes failed, not a good day. Time spent with friends, three new projects and some lessons learned, not a bad day. More photos to follow. September 05 Climbing, Switzerland, 1-3 September 200601/09/06, Sandbalm, Goschenen People: Beat Schwegler, Nadia Spilordo and I
Weather: Warm, mid-late 20s
Route
Bijou, Overall 6b (French), 6 pitches: 5c, 5c+, 6a-, 6a-, 6a-, 6b. Altitude: 1490m, Length: 240m.
My first friction climb on granite and my first multi pitch route. Beat lead, Nadia and I followed. I really enjoyed the climb, quickly learnt a whole new level of trust in my feet and discovered you can climb something with at first glance has almost no holds. The top pitch was really tough and took me a few minutes to string the first couple of moves together.
3 Photos of Sandbalm below.
Telli
People and weather as above
Via Gloria, 6a (French)
Beat lead, I followed. A tough and steep route, but great view and setting.
Lochliwag, 6a+ (French)
Beat lead, I followed. Another steep route, ran out of energy and had to rest. Great climb.
New Route (yet to be named and graded)
A tough route at the far left by the fallen tree. Pumpy towards the top. Beat lead.
02/09/06, Frutt
People: As above
Weather: overcast, as the photos show with occasional spots of rain. Mid to late teens.
Routes
Alpabfahrt, 6a (French)
Beat lead, I followed. Damn steep but with real positive holds. Brilliant climb. The last but one move was scary as you have to unclip the last quickdraw and the reach across right. A fall would result in a nice pendulum! I bottled it and had to re-clip to rest, then down climbed and did it direct rather than traverse: took more energy but I didn't feel like I was going to get hurt if I slipped.
Boniwag, 6b (French)
I didn't want to climb Boniwag at all as my arms were aching nicely after the day before and Alpabfahrt, the thought of a 6b just wasn't that appealing. But when Beat nagged me about how good the route was, and that grade was 5c until the last 5m, so I relented and climbed the 5c part (wimp eh?). Beat was right - another brilliant climb. Beat lead, I top roped. Nadia climbed it to the top.
Two photos of Nadia on Boniwag below.
Steichuiz, 6a
Wet and grassy: I didn't climb it.
Heiwrächä, 6a
Quite a tough start followed by a nice climb which wasn't as steep as the others.
Adventure Factory, 5c+
A good climb which went easy at the grade, although we think we went off route.
Three photos of me on Adventure Factory below. 03/09/06, Schollenen
People: Beat Schwegler and I
Weather: cloudy, low-mid 20s
Route
Diagonale, Overall 6a (French), 7 pitches: 4a, 4c, 5c+, 6a, 4b, 5a, 5c+, 5c. Altitude: 1300m, Length: 330m
This was brilliant. Easy first couple of pitches leading to a few pitches of sustained crack climbing. We climbed the first three pitches really quickly to ensure we didn't run out of time (we didn't leave from Luzern until 1330). Then we relaxed a bit, and I concentrated on technique - using foot holds and standing up rather than pulling up. Some pitches were a bit wet, one had water running down the crack. Beat lead, I followed. Whole route was climbed in 90 mins! Awesome.
Wadlichlimser, Overall 6a (French), 8 pitches but we only did the first two as it was late: 5c+, 6b (guide is wrong stating 5c+)
Saw this as we abbed down from Diagonale and decided we had time for the first couple of pitches. Another brilliant route, starts relatively easily then a tough bit on the start of the 2nd pitch due to one or two moves. Arms were killing me after all the exertion - even belaying Beat was difficult :-) August 17 Climbing, Costa Blanca, Spain, 1 through 13 August 2006
03/08/06 (evening), Sierra De Toix, Far Oeste
People: Fred Baumhardt, Stephanie Hall, Charlotte Gunn and I
Weather: Hot, clear, low 30's
Routes
La Roja Una, Sport 3
Nice simple route with huge holds. Slightly tricky start and a bit more challenging near the top where it is steeper. I lead, the others top-roped. Enjoyed the climb, and the views from the crag are excellent - right down to Benidorm. There's a lot of building continuing below the Sierra De Toix, but its not noisy or obtrusive. SE facing so its a bit of a sun trap with only small bushes for shade but late afternoon onwards its a nice temperature. Anchor at the top is a bit rusty and worn so I setup a safety to be 100% sure - if it was just me I wouldn't have bothered. Fred and Charlottes 1st outdoor climb. Stephanie enjoyed this a lot as the pockets are so large here, unlike her experience of Fallen Slab an Blacknor South on Portland.
Asombroso, Sport 3+
This felt easier than La Roja Una because its consistently the same difficulty on the whole climb. Again, I lead the others top roped. As La Roja Una, the anchor is a bit rusty and worn so I setup a safety to be 100% sure.
05/08/06 (mid afternoon), Sierra De Toix, Far Oeste
People: Fred Baumhardt, Stephanie Hall, Charlotte Gunn and I
Weather: Hot, clear, low-mid 30's
Routes
La Roja Una, Sport 3
See above for route comments. Again I lead, the others top roped.
Asombroso, Sport 3+
See above for route comments. Again I lead, the others top roped.
Ocho Fixe, Sport 4
A nice consistent route with good holds. I lead, the others top roped. Good anchor required no safety.
Costilla, Sport 4+
Sustained route with smaller pockets requiring toe-work which gets painful if you hang around. Last few meters are the worst. I lead, the others top roped. Good anchor required no safety.
08/08/06 (mid afternoon), Sierra De Toix, Far Oeste
People: Fred Baumhardt, Kelly Baumhardt, Stephanie Hall and I
Weather: Hot, clear, mid 30's
Routes
La Roja Una, Sport 3
See above for route comments. Again I lead, the others top roped. Kelly's 1st outdoor climb.
Asombroso, Sport 3+
See above for route comments. Again I lead, the others top roped.
La Roja Dos, Sport 4
As the rockfax guide says, you need to weave around a bit on this one otherwise it feels like a hard 4. I lead, the others top roped.
09/08/06 (late evening), Font D'Axia
People: Fred Baumhardt, Kelly Baumhardt and I
Weather: Warm, mid-late 20's
Route
Izquierda Ruta, Sport 3+
As a comment on the Rockfax website says, this is painful on the feet. I'd say it was at the high end of 3+, bordering a 4. We didn't realise how long it would take us to get to the crag from our rented villa in Cumbre Del Sol - according to the map and TomTom, it was the closest to the villa and as we decided late to go for a climb we wanted something close. The sun was setting as we geared up at the crag and light was fading fast by the time Fred top roped it. I lead, Kelly top roped followed by Fred. Stopped to watch the almost full moon rise on the walk out, it was fully dark by the time we got back to the car. The approach felt more like 10 mins to me than the 4 listed in the Rockfax guide.
10/08/06 (late afternoon), Sierra De Toix, Far Oeste
People: Fred Baumhardt, Kelly Baumhardt, Stephanie Hall and I
Weather: Hot, low-mid 30's
Routes
Asombroso, Sport 3+
See above for route comments. Fred's 1st lead; not bad for someone who'd only been climbing on an indoor wall once and outdoor 4 times before this. Kelly top roped. Stephanie and I passed.
La Roja Dos, Sport 4
I lead, the others top roped.
La Roja Tres, Sport 5
Now I found this route very easy and think its closer to a 4 than a 5 - an opinion which comments on the Rockfax site support. Even a 4+ seems over graded. Good holds, only one technical move (a rock over on the niche), only bit which is a little challenging is getting onto the slab at the top; you have to trust a left-foot smear with poor hand holds (which might be the only reason its a 5). I lead, Fred top roped.
12/08/06 (mid afternoon), Sierra De Toix
People: Stephanie Hall, Charlotte Gunn and I
Weather: Very Hot, mid-late 30's
Routes
Having looked at the photo on page 244 of the Rockfax guide, I concluded we'd have a go at something a little different. We parked at Toix Oeste, and walked/scrabbled/climbed up to Toix Placa - Upper. About 1/2 way from the car to the crag I was getting concerned we'd missed it as we'd been moving (admittedly slowly) for 30 odd mins. A quick look at the guide confirmed we were on track but still had some way to go. This is when I noticed the suggested approach is to park near the TV transmitters. Stephanie and Charlotte found it very funny (they weren't carrying the gear). Another 15 mins and we arrived at the foot of Helti, a nice-looking long 4+. The length had attracted me to it as both Stephanie and Charlotte could climb 4+. On inspection I couldn't find the bolts. This is when I worked out what a thread is! I wasn't happy with them so we decided to go upto Toix TV Tropical Dreams (or TV Right as its listed on the Rockfax website).
El Baile @ Toix TV Right, 4+ (5+ in updated Rockfax mini guide - I found this out after I returned to the UK)
The Rockfax guide states "The crinkly rib above the fixed rope has spaced bolts. 24m". Boy are they not kidding. Its damn steep, you feel very exposed and the gaps between some of the bolts makes the grade feel harder. Its fair to say I had a huge dose of adrenalin climbing this one. Felt more difficult than 4+. There is indeed a tap in the rock about 1/2 way up (photo below). Took me a good 10 mins to chill after the climb. I wasn't 100% happy about the anchor, and felt the route was too difficult (steep) for Stephanie and Charlotte - so they didn't do it.
Costilla @ Toix Far Oeste, Sport 4+
Leading this immediately after El Baile (ok, 30 mins later as we had to get from Toix TV down to Far Oeste) re-enforced my opinion that the grade felt low at a 4+. However, remove the exposure and the moves on El Baile were no more difficult/technical than Costilla. Stephanie and Charlotte top roped.
13/08/06 (mid afternoon), Sierra De Toix
People: Fred Baumhardt and I
Weather: Very Hot, late 30's
Routes
A great climb with a blank-looking start. An interesting challenge about mid-way up with some thought required. Really enjoyed this one. I lead, Fred top roped. Didn't have the guts to do El Baile (20 yards away) again :-). Next time... Parked near the TV Transmitter this time :-s
Ocho Fixe, Sport 4
Fred lead, I speed climbed with a top rope. Fred's 1st "4" lead.
La Roja Tres, Sport 5
Doing this shortly after Valassen re-enforced my belief it is over-graded. Felt far easier than the 4+... Both Fred and I lead - his first "5" lead.
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